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Dont say it..... SPray it

9/2/2014

1 Comment

 
This week we have a lot of spraying work to complete.
The first thing we need to do in preparation is to remove the dew from the greens. The picture below is of  Ethan showing off his skills on the Torro Triflex, whilst cutting the 10th green. 
Picture
What is the purpose of our spraying this week?

Fusarium patch

This disease is caused by the fungus Monographella Nivalis (formally known as Fusarium nivale). Unfortunately, it is one of the most damaging diseases of turf grasses and can be difficult to control. It is found most frequently during autumn, winter and early spring, but attacks can occur at any time of the year.
The disease is sometimes very noticeable after thaws of snow, when it is given the common name of snow mould.

Picture
Picture above is taken on the 7th green. The pitch mark fork is to give a comparison in size to the fusarium patch.

Symptoms
What to look out for;
  • The disease is first noticed as small patches of yellowish, dying grass that later turn brown
  • Patches increase in size and may reach 30cm (12in) or more in diameter, often merging together so that large areas can be affected
  • During wet conditions a white or pinkish, cottony fungal growth may be noticed, particularly at the margins of the patch. This is not to be confused with slime moulds in turf control
 Non-chemical control
  • Ensure that the green dries rapidly after dews or rainfall by improving the aeration and drainage. This can be done by a combination of scarifying, spiking and hollow  or solid tining.
  • Remove heavy dews in the morning with a switch (a long, pliable rod) or bamboo cane
  • Avoid high doses of nitrogen fertiliser in late summer or autumn – use a proprietary autumn feed instead

Chemical control
The fungicide we are using is Headway. 

Picture
My view this morning with Dave aka Shave on the 6th and 7th greens.

This week we are also spraying all fairways, tees and approaches to prevent worm cast.
Earthworms are much less abundant in acidic soils, so in theory reducing the soil Ph should help to reduce a worm cast problem. The products we use do not kill worms but deter them from moving through treated areas. 

They often need repeated application to remain effective. 
Picture
If the soil is alkaline, i.e. above pH7, it would be difficult to make the soil sufficiently acidic to deter earthworms. If the soil is already acidic, i.e. below pH7, there is a possibility that repeated applications of sulphur might make the soil too acidic and adversely affect grass growth
1 Comment
car mason link
9/11/2014 06:23:12 pm

Great article and a lovely golf course.......We are always happy to help with equipment and clothing...http://fmwdistinct.com/

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